Let’s talk about fashion, good taste, party and brightness? So let’s talk about Haute Couture.
The word, like the concept and everything that involves the idea, is French. In Portuguese it is known as haute couture. Regardless of language, luxury is always the same. That’s because this is the slice of fashion that is dedicated to exclusive design with tailor-made models – keep the craftsmanship from the start, you know? But it is not enough to be handmade, always involves a lot of glamor, rare stones, shiny crystals, precious metals, delicate embroidery, special lace, fine fabrics … And more: the designs are unique (each piece is unique, there is no risk of finding an equal in the same environment, the same event or anywhere in the world), the modeling is perfect and the materials of the highest quality. By this description, you can identify what we are talking about, is not it? They are those models used in gala events, black tie, red carpets … Hollywood thing itself. They are true works of art, beautiful to see and that everyone dreams of. Oh, and an important detail: always, always signed by the most recognized and sought after names in the fashion world.
Put it all together with the skill of the person who makes it and the time and dedication to them (some pieces take up to 1000 hours to get ready!), And we have pieces with very high market value, of course. To get an idea, there are models in history that have already reached worth $ 800,000, including Yves Saint Laurent’s black tie dresses or items from the Madame Butterfly collection that John Galliano created for Christian Dior in 2007.
But how was he born?
It all started in 1858, in Paris, of course. At the time, the term Haute Couture was used to define the work of the maison of Charles Frederick Worth, an English designer who produced the first fashion show with this concept. It is worth mentioning another curiosity of this event: it was on this occasion that the models entered the catwalk for the first time – until then, the clothes were presented on the good old hanger.
The business was so serious that the term Haute Couture has legal protection. That’s right, not everyone can use that definition in their creations. There are rules and standards (very rigorous, incidentally) to be followed and, if everything is within the required rules, then the title is guaranteed. Among the requirements, the brand needs to maintain a studio in Paris, have a staff of at least 15 full time staff, make the pieces always handy and custom, with at least one proof of clothing and present their collections publicly twice a year. year – and, in each of these exhibits, have at least 35 looks for day and night. Who defines and evaluates all this is the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which annually reviews the marks gives the final word of who continues, who leaves and who enters this select group.
Currently, Haute Couture brands include Chanel, Dior, Schiaparelli, Maison Margiela, Atelier Versace, Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, Bouchra Jarrar, Stéphane Rolland, JPG, Viktor & Rolf, Adeline Andre, Ulyana Sergeenko, Fendi, Giorgio Armani Privé, Alexis Mabille, Maurizio Galante, Alexandre Vauthier, Giambattista Valli, Ralph & Russo, Kayek and Franck Sorbier,
The glamor that envelops this universe is so much that in World War II Hitler tried to take control of the haute couture of France and to take to Germany. In vain, of course.
From Brazil, we already had Ocimar Versolato as a representative in French fashion shows, today is Gustavo Lins. They are among the invited stylists who make a pret-a-porter of luxury with haute couture know-how. But if the union thinks that the collection was not so good … they cut it in the nick of time. They are picky.
But there’s the other side of the coin! The Union not only controls, but also invests to ensure that the quality of artists remains high. That is why, since 1928, he has maintained a styling and modeling school for dressmakers and creators who want to try to enter this industry.
Here in Brazil we do not have haute couture – only invited designers, as we said before. But we have pret-a-porter luxury and tailor-made luxury clothing. In both cases, we have artists who bring the same rigor in care, aesthetics, glamor, knowledge, quality. And the result is creations worthy of any red tapetre.
One of these prominent names when talking about luxury dress is the stylist Sergio Gavioli. And so Torrego made a point of talking with him to get to know his work, his creative process and his studio more closely.
In this chat, we show three models of dresses, each with different characteristics and stories. But his creations go far beyond that. It goes from weddings – with jaw-dropped bridal gowns, to freaky parties – with black tie looks to sweep. The delicacy of the embroidery, the quality in the finishes, the care in the production, the knowledge in the drawings are just some of the marks of the work of the artist.
Our dear Claudia Métne is his client and, at least once a month, uses one of his creations in events and parties of the night of São Paulo. And from day to day she can check out this work, which is careful and detailed, but it is not easy – the model she wears in the video, for example, took five months to get ready.
But what about men?
Do you need to stay out of this world and just pass it off? Of course not, and Torrego is here to prove it. He had the desire to dress a model Sergio Gavioli, and the solution of the artist was to create that beautiful vest that you check in the video. A piece that combines an accurate modeling, quality materials, great taste and luxury. All this without leaving aside the characteristics of Torrego himself. After all, listening and understanding the customer is part of the creative process of fashion. This is how the designer came in colors (predominantly blue, his favorite) and embroidered in the right measure – not too little to go unnoticed or excessive to not get too “Elton John”, as Torrego jokes. For him, the important thing is to have all the elements in balance so that the structure of the work is valued and detached (and not hidden behind the glares).